Fashion history: Mary Quant
Hi Mannequins!
I’m going to take you all back to the 60’s, when skirts got shorter,
design got quirky and ladies started to think for themselves. One of the most
famous designers during this era was Mary Quant. Mary was born February 11th
1934 in Kent. She studied illustration at Goldsmith’s college and did her
apprenticeship at Erik.
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| Mary Quant (1966) |
In 1955 she opened her first store in London. She started by selling
small white plastic collars to brighten up sweaters and dresses, stockings in
bright colours to match her knitwear, men’s cardigans long enough to be worn as
dresses and a pair of “crazy” pajamas Mary made herself, these pajamas would
become a hit. They not only got featured in Harper’s Bazaar they also got
bought by an American manufacturer to copy.
After the success she started her own clothing line inspired by her own
childhood, more specifically the brand was influenced by a group of older tap
dancers she saw when she took ballet classes as a young girl.
“During [one ballet class], I could hear exciting music coming from next
door, and when I peeked through the glass I saw a tap-dancing class take place,
and in the middle of the room, a girl a couple of years older than me who was
the vision of everything I wanted to be,” Quant said. “She was wearing a short
pleated skirt about 10 inches long, with a skinny black sweater, black tights
and a bob haircut. What struck me was how the whole outfit focused on what she
had on her feet: a pair of white ankle socks, and a pair of patent tap shoes
with ankle straps." If Quants mother hadn’t insisted her daughter take a
ballet class the mini skirt might have never been invented.
In 1958 her dresses and skirts started to become shorter. She saw this
as a liberating development for women. As women could now run to the bus and
move more freely. She introduced the design we now know as the mini skirt in
1965 and it would become the most important fashion statement of the 60's. A
designer named Andre Courréges came up with the same idea, as they came up with
it around the same time we are not quite sure who actually thought up the idea
of the mini skirt. There is still disagreement about the subject to this day. Quant is also known for her brightly patterned and coloured tights.
Although some credit for that trend is also given to Spanish designer
Christobal Balenciaga. Quant's popularity spiked when she introduced the micro
mini skirt, paint-box makeup and plastic raincoats. In the late 60's Quant came
up with her last big fashion innovation: The hotpants.
When you think 60’s you think mini skirts and A-line dresses in bright
patterns and colours. One of these iconic 60’s looks from Quant is the Banana
split dress, this dress is also one of Mary’s own favorite designs. It may
appear simple at first glance with it’s high neck, black fabric and simple zipper
in the front. But as soon as you unzip it a white stripe will appear. Mary
later said “You can make it as exciting as you want”. As the dress is cut
without a horizontal seam, it flares out at the hipbone. Which gives it a
classic 60’s feel.
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| Banana split dress |
In her time Quant was described as the biggest fashion influence outside
Paris and to be honest. I have to agree. Quant changed the way people see
clothing, now clothing could be fun, exiting, special and experimental.
*Special thanks to my dear friend Ruth for correcting my mistakes.*
